Kolhapuri chappals are described by the Free Press Journal as the traditional handcrafted leather footwear of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The name now appears on listings with very different finishes, and a buyer shopping for festive or ethnic wear has to decide which of them to trust.
Two questions settle most of the choice. The first is whether the origin claim on a listing can be checked, and the second is what the sole is made of and how the pair is meant to be looked after. The four pairs below come from Kalapuri, Khadim and Dmodot, and every detail is taken from the pages of the brands or from the public records named in the sources.
What the GI tag covers
The Free Press Journal reported, while covering the row with Prada, that the exclusive registered ownership of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Kolhapuri chappals lies with two state run corporations. These are LIDCOM in Maharashtra and LIDKAR in Karnataka.
A second report from the same publication says the governments of Maharashtra and Karnataka jointly secured the tag. It adds that the status legally reserves the right to make and market Kolhapuri chappals.
The GI journal entry, which is the registry document, lists the same two corporations as applicants. It names the Central Leather Research Institute in Chennai as facilitator and files the product under footwear class 25.
A brand name on a listing is a separate matter from the origin claim, since the tag sits with the two corporations and not with any shop or label.
One practical check is described in the Free Press Journal report. LIDCOM has introduced QR coded certification for each pair, and scanning the code can show the name and location of the artisan or production unit. A buyer looking at a listing or at a pair in hand can therefore look for a QR code, or for a mention of the artisan or production unit, and compare it with what the seller says.
Where the craft is practised and what it uses
According to the GI journal entry, the production area covers four districts of Maharashtra, namely Sholapur, Sangli, Kolhapur and Satara. In Karnataka it covers Dharwad, Belgaum, Bagalkot and Bijapur.
Kolhapur is named as the main centre of production in the Free Press Journal report. The government crafts page agrees on the town and adds that more than ten thousand artisans work there, a figure that is the page’s own.
Descriptions of the leather differ between the records. The GI journal says the chappal is made entirely from bag tanned vegetable leather, tanned with babul bark and myrobalan fruits, and that bag tanning takes about 30 to 32 days.
On raw materials, the government crafts page names buffalo hide, goat hide and cowhide as raw materials, and says the sole is buffalo leather while the upper is goatskin. The two documents are not the same in their wording, and a buyer reading a listing that names a leather type may find either description used.
For stitching, the GI journal says the outer sole, insole, upper and heel are traditionally stitched with leather thread, and that some areas now use a latex pasting method. The crafts page says the full process can take up to six weeks and ends with cream polish and sun drying.
How the soles differ
The three brands describe three different constructions, and the differences matter for daily wear and for care.
Kalapuri lists a TPR sole with a stitched kanpa on both of its pairs, with an upper of leather and a stitched leather base. The page calls this genuine leather, which is the brand’s own statement and not a finding from any outside test.
Khadim describes its Lazard slip on as having a leather upper with a synthetic antibacterial lining. The sole is TPR, and the page says it gives slip resistance on dry and wet surfaces of all kinds.
Dmodot lists a rubber outsole for its Pelle Kolho Nox, with braided leather trim on the upper. The footbed carries a 3 mm Ortholite cushion, and the page describes the outsole as cemented in construction.
None of the four listings gives a sole thickness or a break in period. The Kalapuri usage page and the Dmodot product page both leave break in out as well, so the construction words are the only guide to how each pair is built.
What each page says about care
Care advice is where the three brands differ most, and it bears on the occasions the pairs are bought for. A chappal worn to a wedding or a festival in dry weather faces different risks from one worn on wet pavements.
Kalapuri’s Punch Patta page says the chappals should not be used in water or in the rainy season. It adds that the pair should be fully dried after any exposure to water.
The brand’s separate usage page gives more detail. It says leather can absorb moisture and lose its shape, so heavy rain and wet conditions are best avoided, and that a wet pair should be dried in the shade away from hairdryers and direct heat.
For routine cleaning, the same page suggests dusting with a dry or barely damp cloth. It also says to avoid bending or folding the sandals, and to store them in a cool, dry place out of direct sun, under a cloth or in a shoe bag.
Occasional leather conditioner or a natural oil such as coconut oil can be applied, according to Kalapuri. The page does not cover break in or care specific to the sole.
Khadim’s page advises avoiding washing. It suggests wiping dirt with a soft bristled brush or a microfibre towel.
Dmodot’s page advises keeping the chappal away from water and gently wiping it with a dry cloth. It also asks buyers to avoid pulling the braided sections, so that they do not loosen.
The Kurundwadi page from Kalapuri links to a full care guide. The product page does not show what the guide says.
Four pairs side by side
The table sets out the sole, the sizes and the care note for each pair as the pages state them. Colours and construction are described in the sections that follow.
Kalapuri pairs in detail
The Punch Patta is listed in a greenish grey colourway, and the Kurundwadi is listed as Brown Dodge. Both use the same stitched TPR construction, so the choice between them rests on colour and on the name of the pattern.
Kalapuri lists Euro sizes 40 to 46 on the Punch Patta page, with the UK equivalents in the size guide. The Kurundwadi page lists the same Euro range with UK equivalents in its own size guide.
The Punch Patta suits a man who wants a stitched leather chappal with a TPR sole in a grey green shade. The Kurundwadi suits a man who wants the same construction in brown. Neither product page states warranty terms.
Both pages come from the brand’s own site, so phrases such as genuine leather are statements by Kalapuri. A buyer who wants more than the brand’s wording can look for the QR code or the artisan mention described earlier.
Khadim and Dmodot pairs in detail
The Khadim Lazard is a slip on with a leather upper. It fits a man who wants a Kolhapuri style slip on with a slip resistant TPR sole, and the page lists sizes 5 to 11.
No return window or warranty period appears on the Khadim page. It carries the phrase 100% Original Guaranteed and a link for creating a return, and the phrase is the brand’s own claim.
The Dmodot Pelle Kolho Nox is a dark brown braided chappal. The brand describes the upper as leather, and the page lists sizes from 40/6 to 45/11, which pairs a Euro number with a UK number in each step.
It fits a man who wants a braided leather Kolhapuri with a cushioned insole. The page is inconsistent on the outsole colour, showing black in the specifications table and dark brown in the FAQ, so a buyer who cares about the exact shade may want the seller to confirm it.
Sizes and measuring
Each brand presents sizing in its own way. Kalapuri uses Euro sizes with UK equivalents, Khadim lists plain numbers, and Dmodot combines the two scales. The Punch Patta page advises taking the larger size when a buyer falls between two sizes.
The GI journal gives no dimensions for the chappal, only size patterns. It lists grades 6 to 11 for men and 5 to 9 for women.
A measuring guide from Lusso Lifestyle describes a simple method. Paper is laid against a wall, the heel and the longest toe are marked, and the length is measured in centimetres, using the larger foot.
The same guide advises measuring in the evening, since feet swell during the day and morning readings can give shoes that feel tight. It adds that size charts differ by brand, and that width labels such as narrow, regular and wide have no numeric cut offs.
Returns, warranty and the BIS mark
Kalapuri’s FAQ says sandals can be returned within 7 days of delivery if they are unworn and unused, with tags and original packaging. It adds that damaged, defective or wrong items are replaced at no extra cost, subject to stock.
Dmodot’s return policy also sets a 7 day window for exchanges and returns. The item must be unworn, tried on indoors only, and in original packaging with tags and dust bag, and a return can be declined for misuse or improper care.
The same policy describes a 90 day warranty against manufacturing defects. It excludes wear and tear, water damage, improper storage and misuse, so the water advice on the product page also affects what the warranty covers.
Khadim’s policies page gives no return window. It says returns are for products that differ from the description, and that the item must be unused and undamaged, with the original invoice.
Intertek’s summary of the Indian footwear quality control orders says leather footwear must carry the BIS Standard Mark under a licence, with the licence number shown on the product in the form CM/L followed by a number. The same summary lists chappal standards under the rubber and polymeric order, and the leather order summary names no chappal standard.
The GI tag and the QR certificate described in the news reports concern origin, and the brand pages concern construction. The two sets of information do not overlap.
